The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor on the 2004-2006 2.8L Chevrolet Colorado (GMC Canyon) is a simple two-wire variable reluctor type sensor you can easily test with a multimeter resistance test.
In this tutorial, I'll explain how to perform the CKP sensor multimeter resistance test step-by-step. I'll also explain how to performance-test the CKP sensor in action.
Contents of this tutorial:
APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:
- 2.8L Chevrolet Colorado: 2004, 2005, 2006.
- 2.8L GMC Canyon: 2004, 2005, 2006.
Symptoms Of A Bad CKP Sensor
Generally, when the CKP sensor fails, it'll stop creating a CKP signal due to an internal short-circuit problem or an open-circuit problem.
Since the CKP sensor is monitored by the fuel injection computer the entire time your Chevrolet Colorado or GMC Canyon's engine is cranking or running, when it fails, the PCM will:
- Set a CKP sensor diagnostic trouble code (in its memory).
- Illuminate the check engine light.
You'll see one of the following CKP sensor diagnostic trouble codes stored in the PCM's memory:
- P0335: Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Circuit Failure.
- P0336: Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Performance.
In some cases, the CKP sensor will fail intermittently. In other words, it'll work fine most of the time, but then it won't.
If your 2.8L Chevrolet Colorado (GMC Canyon) is experiencing an intermittent no-start problem, you'll need to test the CKP sensor when the engine is not starting. Otherwise, the CKP sensor will always test good.
Where To Buy A CKP Sensor And Save
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor isn't an expensive component. Still, it's important you avoid buying a knock-off sensor. Here are my recommendations of known automotive brands:
Important 2.8L CKP Sensor Testing Suggestions
The CKP sensor isn't one of the most accessible components on your 2.8L Chevrolet Colorado or GMC Canyon's engine.
The inaccessibility of the CKP sensor complicates testing it, and for the most part, you have one of three options when troubleshooting a bad CKP sensor:
- Just replace it.
- Remove it and bench test it.
- On-car CKP sensor's performance test.
OPTION 1: Replacing the CKP sensor without testing it to see if the problem goes away seems to be the de facto way of diagnosing the CKP sensor for many. For most folks, this makes sense for two simple reasons:
- The CKP sensor is not an expensive component.
- The CKP sensor is in an inaccessible testing location.
OPTION 2: If you need to make sure the CKP is bad (before replacing it), the quickest and easiest way to find out is to remove it and bench-test it. TEST 1 explains how to do this in detail.
This method still has its possible complications because the CKP sensor or its rubber seal may get damaged/destroyed when removing it. If this happens, you'll need to replace the CKP sensor even if it tests good.
OPTION 3: The on-car performance test of the CKP sensor is a bit more involved. In a nutshell, you would have to:
- Buy a CKP sensor pigtail connector (online or at your local auto parts store).
- Connect the pigtail connector to the CKP sensor.
- Connect your multimeter to this pigtail connector.
- Crank the engine.
- See if the multimeter reports an AC voltage.
In TEST 2, you'll find the on-car performance test of the CKP sensor described in detail.
TEST 1: Checking CKP Sensor Resistance With A Multimeter
All right, you'll test the resistance of the CKP sensor with your multimeter in Ohms mode.
The result of your resistance test should indicate the CKP sensor hasn't suffered an internal short-circuit problem or an open-circuit problem.
Specifically, if your multimeter test result indicates:
- 0 Ohms (or any value near 0), the CKP sensor has an internal short-circuit problem and needs replacement.
- OL (Open Loop), the CKP sensor has an internal open-circuit problem and needs replacement.
If you're wondering, the CKP sensor internal resistance value (specification) is: 1.3K to 1.7K Ohms.
IMPORTANT: You'll need to raise your vehicle and place it on jack stands to access the CKP sensor. Don't trust the jack alone to keep the vehicle up in the air while you work underneath it.
Let's get started:
Disconnect the CKP sensor from its electrical connector.
LOCATION: The CKP sensor is located next to the starter motor.
Remove the CKP sensor.
Place your multimeter in Ohms mode.
With your multimeter test leads, probe the male spade terminals of the CKP sensor.
You should see a resistance of 1.3K to 1.7K Ohms.
I usually see about 1.5K Ohms (with a cold engine and an ambient temperature of 90° F).
Let's analyze your test result:
CASE 1: The CKP sensor's resistance is within specification. This is the correct and expected test result, and it tells you the CKP sensor is OK.
Although not necessary, you can further confirm the CKP sensor is good by performing TEST 2. Go to: TEST 2: Testing The CKP Sensor's Output With A Multimeter.
CASE 2: The CKP sensor's resistance IS NOT within specification. This test result confirms the crankshaft position sensor is bad and needs replacement.
Although not necessary, you can further confirm the CKP sensor is bad by performing TEST 2. Go to: TEST 2: Testing The CKP Sensor's Output With A Multimeter.
CASE 3: The CKP sensor's resistance 0 Ohms. This test result confirms the crankshaft position sensor has an internal short-circuit problem and needs replacement.
CASE 4: The multimeter shows the letters OL as the CKP sensor's resistance value. This test result confirms the crankshaft position sensor has an internal open-circuit problem and needs replacement.