How To Test: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V)

TEST 2: Manually Applying 12 Volts And Ground To The Linear Solenoid

There's a good chance that A/T pressure control solenoid (linear solenoid) passed TEST 1 with flying colors, but it could still be defective.

So our next test is to manually apply 12 Volts to terminal #1 and battery Ground to terminal #2 and see if the solenoid audibly clicks.

The easiest and safest way to apply power and Ground to the solenoid is with a Power Probe (if you have one).

If you don't have a Power Probe, you can use jumper wires. I suggest using alligator clips with rubber insulating protectors on the end of the jumper wire that'll connect to the male spade terminal of the solenoid's connector.

The rubber insulated alligator clips will help you avoid shorting out the jumper wire that's carrying battery power to the solenoid.

NOTE: This test can be done with the pressure control solenoid (linear solenoid) in its place on your 2.0L Honda CR-V's transmission. I have found that it's a whole lot easier to remove it and bench test it.

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Connect terminal #1 to your Honda CR-V's battery positive (+) post with a jumper wire.
   
   NOTE: As a safety precaution, use a jumper wire with rubber insulated alligator clips on both ends.

2. 2

   Connect terminal #2 to your Honda CR-V's battery Ground post.

3. 3

   The pressure control solenoid should make a clicking sound as soon as you Ground solenoid terminal #2.

Let's examine your test result:

CASE 1: The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid made a clicking sound. This is the correct and expected test result.

The next test is to check that the solenoid's valve moves when applying power and Ground to the solenoid. For this test go to: TEST 3: Checking The Movement Of The Solenoid's Valve.

CASE 2: The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid's valve DID NOT make a clicking sound. This test result tells you that the solenoid is defective and needs to be replaced.

TEST 3: Checking The Movement Of The Linear Solenoid's Valve

For our last test we're gonna manually apply 12 Volts to terminal #1 and battery Ground to terminal #2 and see if the valve inside the linear solenoid assembly moves in a smooth way.

You'll need to remove the A/T pressure control solenoid from its place on your Honda CR-V's transmission for this test.

As I mentioned before, the easiest and safest way to apply power and Ground to the solenoid is with a power probe (if you have one).

If you don't have a Power Probe, you can use jumper wires with rubber insulated alligator clips that you can make yourself.

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Remove the clutch pressure control solenoid from its place on the transmission (if you haven't already done so).

2. 2

   Connect terminal #1 to your Honda CR-V's battery positive (+) post.

3. 3

   Connect terminal #2 to your Honda CR-V's battery negative (-) post.

4. 4

   You should be able to see the valve move (inside the assembly) as soon as you Ground solenoid terminal #2.
   
   When you un-Ground the solenoid, the valve should move back to its original position.

Let's examine your test result:

CASE 1: The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid's valve moved. This is the correct and expected test result. You can conclude that the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid (linear solenoid) is OK and not defective.

If your automatic transmission isn't shifting, check out this section: Linear Solenoid Is Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting.

CASE 2: The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid's valve DID NOT move or is binding. This test result tells you that the solenoid is defective and needs to be replaced.

Linear Solenoid Is Good But Transmission Still Not Shifting

If you've tested the A/T pressure control solenoid (linear solenoid) and it's good and your Honda's transmission isn't slipping, yet a P1768 is ever present, there's a good chance that there a problem in the wiring between your Honda CR-V's PCM and the solenoid's electrical connector.

What I would do, and what I'm recommending you do, is to check the continuity of both wires between the solenoid's electrical connector and the PCM's connector with a multimeter (you'll need a wiring diagram for this test).

If continuity is present in both, then you've eliminated a short (or open-circuit problem) in the wiring.

Also, and especially after finding no faults in the wiring, there's a good chance that you'll have to replace the A/T pressure control solenoid to completely eliminate it as the source of the problem. I know this isn't something you want to hear, but in some cases this is a necessary thing.

Now, if your Honda's transmission is slipping, then replacing the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid (linear solenoid) isn't gonna' help bring the transmission back to normal. Slippage is a direct result of internal damage to the friction discs or hard parts. The only way to solve a slippage issue is overhauling the transmission.

More 2.0L Honda CR-V Tutorials

You can find a complete list of tutorials here: Honda 2.0L Index Of Articles.

Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find there:

• How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
• How To Test The Ignition Coil (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
• How To Test The TPS (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
• How To Test The MAP Sensor (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
• How To Test Engine Compression (1997-2001 2.0L Honda).