TEST 2: Testing The Fuel Pump's Pressure
Now that you've confirmed that there is spark and fuel injector activation pulses (TEST 1), we're gonna' check the fuel pump's pressure.
The fuel pump is tested at the fuel filter. To be a bit more specific, the fuel pressure test gauge is connected to the outlet side of the fuel filter (see illustration above).
For this test, you're gonna' need a fuel pressure test gauge that has a M12 X 1.25 test fitting (or test adapter).
NOTE: If you need to buy a fuel pressure test gauge kit with the M12 X1.25 test fitting, take a look at this section: Where To Buy An HEI Spark Tester And A Fuel Pressure Gauge.
Here are the test steps:
- 1
Remove the fuel filter's 12 mm banjo bolt and install the fuel pressure tester's M12 x 1.25 test fitting.
Wrap a shop tower around the fuel filter's 12 mm banjo bolt, before you loosen it, to soak up any fuel that'll spill. - 2
Connect the fuel pressure test gauge to the fitting.
- 3
Have your helper crank the engine as you observe the fuel pressure tester's gauge.
- 4
You should see 38-46 PSI on your fuel pressure test gauge.
Let's interpret your fuel pressure test results:
CASE 1: The fuel pressure is at the correct specification. This is the correct and expected test result. With this test result you can eliminate the fuel pump as the source of your 2.0L Honda CR-V's no-start problem.
Your next step is to test the engine's compression. For this test go to: TEST 3: Making Sure The Engine Has Good Compression.
CASE 2: The fuel pressure is at 0 PSI. This test result generally confirms that the fuel pump is bad.
Before you replace the fuel pump, make sure that it's getting battery power when cranking the engine. If battery power is being fed to the fuel pump (when cranking the engine), then you've confirmed that the fuel pump is defective.
CASE 3: The fuel pressure is lower than the indicated PSI. This tells you that the fuel pump is defective.
TEST 3: Making Sure The Engine Has Good Compression
If you have found that spark is present, that the fuel injectors are being activated, and that the fuel pump is OK; then the next step is to see if the engine has compression.
Since your Honda CR-V isn't starting, what you're trying to confirm is if there's 0 PSI compression in 2 or more cylinders.
I won't go into an in-depth explanation of your compression test results (since we're testing a no-start condition), but if you do need one, you can find it here: How To Test Engine Compression (1997-2001 2.0L Honda).
Alright, let's get started:
- 1
Disconnect the distributor from its electrical connectors. This will disable the ignition coil.
- 2
Remove the spark plugs.
- 3
Thread the engine compression gauge into the spark plug hole for the number 1 engine cylinder. Hand tighten the compression gauge only! Do not use any type of tool to get it tight.
- 4
Have your helper crank the engine till the needle on the compression gauge stops climbing.
Now, record the value on a piece of paper and repeat steps 3 and 4 on the remaining 3 cylinders.
Let's take a look at what your compression test results mean:
CASE 1: All cylinders have compression above 100 PSI. This is the correct and expected test result.
CASE 2: All cylinders have 0 PSI compression. This tells you that 0 compression is the cause behind the no-start problem on your 2.0L Honda CR-V.
The most likely cause will be a broken timing belt or the engine threw a rod.
CASE 3: Two adjacent cylinders have 0 PSI. This usually indicates a blown head gasket. Specially if your Honda CR-V overheated before the no-start problem occurred.
For more testing suggestions, take a look at this tutorial: How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
TEST 4: Checking The Timing Belt
The last thing we're gonna' check, to see if it's causing the no-start problem on your 2.0L Honda CR-V, is the timing belt.
Testing the timing belt is a breeze on the ignition distributor equipped 2.0L Honda CR-V, since the test is done at the distributor.
Alright, let's get started:
- 1
Disconnect the distributor from its electrical connector. This will disable the ignition coil.
- 2
Remove the distributor cap. We need to expose the distributor rotor.
- 3
Have your helper crank the engine as you observe the distributor rotor.
The distributor rotor should rotate if the timing belt is OK.
Let's take a look at what your distributor rotor test result mean:
CASE 1: The distributor rotor rotated as the engine turned over. This is the correct and expected test result.
CASE 2: The distributor rotor DID NOT rotate as the engine turned over. This tells you that the timing belt is busted.
No Start Troubleshooting Summary
Testing a 'cranks but does not start' condition all boils down to a process of elimination.
The most important thing you should remember is that the engine is not starting due to a lack of spark, or a lack of fuel, or a lack of compression.
By checking these basic things (spark, fuel, air), you'll save yourself the frustration of replacing components that won't solve the problem.
As you noticed, I started out the troubleshooting tests with a spark test (at all 4 cylinders). This is due to the fact that the culprit behind most no-start problems is the ignition system.
Once you've confirmed that you've got spark at all 4 cylinders, there isn't any need to spend time testing the ignition coil or the ignition control module. The next step is to make sure the fuel pump is working and so on and so on.
Where To Buy An HEI Spark Tester And A Fuel Pressure Gauge
As I mentioned before, the HEI spark tester (OTC 6589) is an accurate spark tester and it doesn't cost and arm and a leg. The fuel pressure gauge with the fitting for the fuel filter banjo bolt is a reasonably priced tool too:
More 2.0L Honda CR-V Tutorials
You can find a complete list of tutorials here: Honda 2.0L Index Of Articles.
Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find there:
- How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
- How To Test The Ignition Coil (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
- How To Test The TPS (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
- How To Test The MAP Sensor (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
- How To Test Engine Compression (1997-2001 2.0L Honda).
On YouTube, check out my following videos:
- How To Test The Ignition Coil (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at YouTube).
- How To Test The Ignition Control Module (1999, 2000, 2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at YouTube).
- How To Test The Fuel Pump (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at: YouTube).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!