TEST 2: Applying 12 Volts To The Starter Solenoid's S Terminal
So far your first test has confirmed that the starter motor does not crank the engine when you bypass the inhitibor relay.
So in this section we're gonna' apply 12 Volts from your Nissan's battery to the starter motor solenoid's S terminal.
If the starter motor is OK, then when the S terminal gets battery voltage it should crank the engine.
The easiest and safest way to apply battery power to the starter motor solenoid's S terminal is with a remote start switch.
If you don't have then you can find out what one looks like and where to buy one here: Sunpro Actron CP7853 Remote Starter Switch for 6V and 12V Automotive Starting Systems, Black.
CAUTION: You'll need to raise your 3.3L Nissan Pathfinder to access the starter motor and perform TEST 2, TEST 3, and TEST 4. Use jack stands to keep it up. Don't trust the jack!
These are the test steps:
- 1
Make sure that the automatic transmission is in Park.
- 2
Disconnect the wire that connects to the starter motor solenoid's S terminal.
- 3
Connect one clip of the remote start switch to the male spade terminal.
- 4
Connect the other clip of the remote start switch to the battery postive (+) terminal.
- 5
Activate the remote start switch.
- 6
The starter motor should activate and crank the engine.
Let's examine your test results:
CASE 1: The starter motor cranked the engine. This is the correct test result and lets you know that the starter motor is OK.
If the starter motor is not cranking the engine when you turn the key to start the engine, then there's a good chance that the starter motor is not getting a Start Signal. Your next step is to go to: TEST 3: Making Sure The Starter Motor Is Getting A Start Signal.
CASE 2: The starter motor DID NOT crank the engine. This test result usually tells you that the starter motor is bad.
To be sure that the starter motor is bad you need to make sure that the cable that feeds it with battery current does not have a voltage drop. For this test go to: TEST 4: Voltage Drop Testing The Battery (+) Cable.
TEST 3: Making Sure The Starter Motor Is Getting A Start Signal
If you've reached this point, then you've confirmed that:
- The starter motor DOES NOT crank the engine when you bypass the inhibitor relay (TEST 1).
- The starter motor cranks the engine only when you apply battery power to the starter solenoid's S terminal (TEST 2).
There's a good chance that the S terminal wire, that transmits the Start Signal from the inhibitor relay has an open-circuit problem.
So in this section we're gonna' check for the presence of the Start Signal on the S terminal wire when you turn the key to start the engine.
These are the test steps:
- 1
Install the inhibitor relay in Relay Box #2.
NOTE: This test is done with the inhibitor relay in its place on Relay Box #2. - 2
Disconnect the wire that connects to the starter motor solenoid's S terminal.
- 3
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
- 4
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the female terminal of the S Terminal wire connector you just disconnected in step 1.
- 5
Haver your helper turn the key to start the engine.
- 6
Your multimeter should register 10 to 12 Volts DC.
Let's examine your test results:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts DC. This is the correct test result and lets you know that the starter motor is getting a Start Signal. You can also conclude that the inhibitor switch and ignition switch are OK.
The next step is to do a voltage drop test on the starter's battery cable. For this test go to: TEST 4: Voltage Drop Testing The Battery (+) Cable.
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts DC. If you have:
- Bypassed the inhibitor relay in TEST 1 and the starter motor DID NOT crank the engine.
- Applied 12 Volts to the S terminal and the starter did crank the engine (TEST 2).
Then this result tells you that the S Terminal wire has an open-circuit problem between its connector and the inhibitor relay's connector in Relay Box #2.
