TEST 5: Making Sure The Coil Pack Is Getting 12 Volts
You can use a multimeter or a test light to test the power (12 Volt) circuit of the Chrysler coil pack.
The wire that feeds 12 Volts to the ignition coil is the wire labeled with the number 2 in the photo above.
These are the test steps:
- 1
Disconnect the ignition coil connected from its connector.
- 2
Put the multimeter in Volts DC mode.
- 3
Probe the circuit labeled with the number 2 (see photo above) with the red multimeter test lead (using an appropriate tool to pierce the wire).
NOTE: The three wires in the ignition coil pack's connector are usually sheathed in black electrical tape that has probably turned plastic hard, remove enough of this electrical tape to expose the three wires for testing. - 4
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) terminal.
- 5
Have your helper turn the key to the ON position and THEN CRANK THE CAR OR MINI-VAN.
- 6
You should see 10-12 Volts on your multimeter, or if you're using a test light, the test light should light up.
Let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: The multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts DC. This is the correct and expected test result.
The next step is verify that the Switching signals are present, go to: TEST 6: Switching Signal For Cylinders 1 And 4 and then do TEST 7: Switching Signal For Cylinders 2 And 3.
If the both Switching signals are not present (after testing them in TEST 6 and TEST 7), the most likely cause will be that the crankshaft position sensor is bad.
You can find a step-by-step test of the crankshaft position sensor here: How To Test The Crank Sensor (Chrysler 2.0L, 2.4L) (at troubleshootmyvehicle.com).
CASE 2: The multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts DC. Re-check all of your connections and retest. If still no voltage is present, this result exonerates the coil pack since without it the ignition coil will not function.
Repairing the cause of this missing voltage will solve the 'no-spark no-start' condition of your Chrysler (or Dodge or Plymouth or Mitsubishi) car.
The most common cause of this missing voltage (12 V) is that the crankshaft position sensor has gone bad. You can find a step-by-step test of the crankshaft position sensor here: How To Test The Crank Sensor (Chrysler 2.0L, 2.4L) (at troubleshootmyvehicle.com).
TEST 6: Switching Signal For Cylinders 1 And 4
Testing for the Switching signal is a very simple and straightforward process.
To check for the Switching signal for cylinders #1 and #4, we're gonna' use an LED Light. If you don't have one, you can find out more about it and where to buy one here: The LED Light Test Tool And How To Make One.
These are the test steps:
- 1
With an appropriate tool, connect the black lead of the LED light to the wire identified with the number 3 in the photo above.
This is the circuit that feeds the Switching signal to the ignition coil (within the coil pack) that feeds spark to cylinders 1 and 4 simultaneously. - 2
Connect the red lead of the LED light to the battery positive (+) terminal.
- 3
Have your helper crank the engine.
NOTE: The car may start so be careful. - 4
If the Switching signal is present, the LED light will flash ON and OFF the whole time the engine was cranking and during the time it was running.
Let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: The LED light flashed ON and OFF the whole time the engine was cranking or running. This is the correct test result and it confirms that the fuel injection computer (PCM) is providing the Switching signal and the circuit is OK.
This result confirms that the ignition coil pack is bad and needs to be replaced only if you have:
- Confirmed that the spark plug wires for cylinder #1 and cylinder #4 are not sparking (TEST 1).
- Confirmed that the ignition coil towers for cylinder #1 and cylinder #4 are not sparking (TEST 3).
- Confirmed that the ignition coil's Switching signal is present in this test section.
CASE 2: The LED light DID NOT flash ON and OFF the whole time the engine was cranking or running. Without a Switching signal the ignition coil will not fire off spark to cylinder #1 and cylinder #4.
The most likely cause of this missing signal is either an open-circuit problem in the circuit between the connector and the PCM or the PCM is fried (altho' a fried PCM is rare). With this result you have eliminated the coil pack as the source of the misfire condition or no-spark condition.