How To Test The Ignition Coil (1997-1998 2.0L Honda CR-V)

TEST 2: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting Power

If the ignition coil is not getting battery power, then it's not gonna' spark. So, in this test section, we're gonna' make sure it's getting power.

Power comes in the form of 12 Volts DC. This power is fed to the ignition coil across the black with yellow stripe (BLK/YEL) wire of the distributor connector.

In the image above, terminal #7 of the distributor's connector is the one that gets fed these 12 Volts.

Once we have confirmed battery power, we'll move on to making sure that the ignition control module is activating the ignition coil.

If you need the ignition system wiring diagram, you can find it here: 1997-1998 2.0L Honda CR-V Ignition System Wiring Diagram.

NOTE: You'll be testing for power on the engine wiring harness distributor connector. This connector has female terminals.

Let's get started:

1. 1

   Disconnect the distributor from it's engine wiring harness connector.

2. 2

   Connect the red multimeter test lead to the BLK/YEL wire of the distributor's engine wiring harness connector.
   
   NOTE: Don't probe the front of the connector, or you'll damage the female terminal. Use a back probe or a wire piercing probe to check for battery power on the wire itself.

3. 3

   Connect the black multimeter test lead to the battery negative (-) post.
   
   Have your helper turn the key to the ON position.

4. 4

   Your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC if the ignition coil is getting battery power.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The ignition coil is getting 10 to 12 Volts DC. This is the correct and expected test result.

The next step is to make sure the ignition control module is sending the ignition coil control signal to the ignition coil. For this step, go to: TEST 3: Making Sure The ICM Is Activating The Ignition Coil.

CASE 2: The ignition coil IS NOT getting battery power. This tells you that the ignition coil is not working due to a lack of battery power.

Your next step is to find out why this battery power is missing and restore it. Once battery power is restored, the ignition coil should function again.

TEST 3: Making Sure The ICM Is Activating The Ignition Coil

If you've reached this point, you have: Confirmed that there's no spark coming out of the ignition coil's tower. You have also confirmed that the ignition coil is getting battery power.

Now in this last section we're gonna' see if the ignition control module is activating the ignition coil to fire spark away.

This is a very simple test and only requires a 12V automotive test light to do it.

NOTE: You'll be testing the ignition coil control signal directly on the ignition coil as the engine cranks. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions.

These are the test steps:

1. 1

   Reconnect the distributor to its engine wiring harness connector.
   
   NOTE: This test is done directly on the (-) terminal of the ignition coil. This terminal is identified as terminal #1 in the photo above.

2. 2

   Connect the alligator clip of the 12 Volt test light to the battery positive (+) terminal.

3. 3

   With the probe end of the test light, touch the (-) terminal of the ignition coil.
   
   This terminal is normally labeled with a (-) sign on the ignition coil itself.

4. 4

   Have your helper crank the engine after the 12 Volt test light is set up.

5. 5

   The 12V test light should flash ON and OFF as the engine turns if the ignition coil control signal is present.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The 12V test light flashed ON and OFF as the engine was cranked. This is the correct and expected test result and confirms that your 2.0L Honda CR-V's ignition control module is activating the ignition coil.

You can now conclude that the ignition coil is defective and needs to be replace if you have:

• Confirmed a lack of spark at all 4 cylinders.
• Confirmed no spark directly on the ignition coil tower (TEST 1).
• Confirmed the ignition coil is getting power (TEST 2).
• Confirmed the ignition coil is getting an activation signal from the ignition control module (TEST 3).

CASE 2: The 12V test light DID NOT flash ON and OFF as the engine was cranked. This tells you that the ignition control module is not sending an ignition coil control signal.

Although it's beyond the scope of this tutorial to test the ignition control module, you have eliminated your 1997-1998 2.0L Honda CR-V's ignition coil as defective (since without its activation signal, it won't spark).

You can find the ignition control module test here: How To Test The Ignition Control Module (1997-1998 2.0L Honda CR-V).

More 2.0L Honda Tutorials

You can find a complete list of tutorials here: Honda 2.0L Index Of Articles.

Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find there:

• How To Test The Ignition Coil (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
• How To Test The Ignition Control Module (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
• How To Test The TPS (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
• How To Test The MAP Sensor (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
• How To Test Engine Compression (1997-2001 2.0L Honda).

On YouTube, check out my following videos:

• How To Test The Ignition Coil (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at YouTube).
• How To Test The Ignition Control Module (1999, 2000, 2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at YouTube).
• How To Test The Fuel Pump (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at: YouTube).