How To Test The Ignition Coil 2.4L Nissan Frontier, XTerra (1998-2004)

TEST 2: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting Power

The ignition coil needs 10 to 12 Volts to spark, so in this test section, we're gonna' make sure it's getting them.

The wire that delivers these 12 Volts to the ignition coil is the black with white stripe (BLK/WHT) wire of the distributor's 2-wire connector. In the photo above, the arrow is pointing to the ignition coil's power wire.

Alright, these are the test steps:

1. 1

   Place your multimeter in Volts DC mode.

2. 2

   Disconnect the distributor from its 2-wire electrical connector.

3. 3

   With the red multimeter test lead, probe the BLK/WHT wire of the distributor's 2-wire connector.

4. 4

   Next, connect the black multimeter test lead directly to the battery negative (-) terminal.

5. 5

   Now, turn the key on (you don't have to crank the engine) and notice the multimeter's voltage reading.

6. 6

   Your multimeter should display 10 to 12 Volts DC.

Let's take a look at what your test result means:

CASE 1: Your multimeter registered 10 to 12 Volts. This is the correct test result and it confirms that the ignition coil is getting power.

Now we need to make sure that the power transistor is activating the ignition coil. For this test go to: TEST 3: Making Sure The Ignition Coil Is Getting A Switching Signal.

CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register 10 to 12 Volts. Recheck your multimeter connections and retest.

If you still don't see 12 Volts, then this result eliminates the ignition coil as bad since without power it's not gonna' work.

Although it's beyond the scope of this article to troubleshoot this missing voltage, finding the cause of these missing 12 Volts will solve the 'no-spark no-start' of your 2.4L Nissan Frontier (Xterra).

TEST 3: Checking The Ignition Coil's Switching Signal

As you might already be aware, the ignition coil on your 2.4L Frontier or Xterra gets a switching signal from the power transistor. It's this switching signal that activates the ignition coil to spark away.

This switching signal can be easily and accurately tested using a simple automotive LED light. If you need to see what this LED light looks like, you can see it here: The LED Light Test Tool And How To Make One.

OK, now for this test, this is what you need to do:

1. 1

   Remove the plastic dust cap that is underneath the distributor rotor.
   
   To be a little more specific, this is the plastic protective cap that protects all of the wires and the igniter inside the distributor and that can be removed by first removing the distributor rotor and then the two little screws that hold it in place.
   
   NOTE: You do not have to remove the distributor to remove this cap and when you're done, your distributor should resemble the one in the photo above.

2. 2

   Locate the wire that the orange arrows are pointing to (on your distributor).

3. 3

   Connect the black lead of the LED to this wire using an appropriate tool (like a wire piercing probe).

4. 4

   Next, connect the red lead of the LED light to the battery positive (+) terminal.

5. 5

   Have your helper crank the engine as you observe the LED light.

6. 6

   The LED light should blink ON and OFF the whole time your helper is cranking the engine.

Let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: The LED light blinked ON and OFF. This is the correct test result and it lets you know that the ignition coil is getting an activation signal.

You can conclude that the ignition coil is bad and needs to be replaced if you have:

• Confirmed that there's no spark coming out of the ignition coil's tower (TEST 1).
• Confirmed that the ignition coil is receiving 10 to 12 Volts DC (TEST 2).
• Confirmed (in this test section) that the coil is getting its activation signal from the igniter.

What sucks about this is that you'll have to buy the whole distributor, since the coil is not sold separately.

CASE 2: The LED light DID NOT blink ON and OFF. This result tells you that the ignition coil is not the cause of the no-spark no-start condition. Without this switching signal, the ignition coil will not spark.

Now, it's beyond the scope of this article to test the power transistor, but you have at least eliminated the ignition coil as the source of the 'no-spark no-start' problem. But don't worry, I have written the power transistor test and you can find it here: How To Test The Power Transistor 2.4L Frontier, XTerra (98-04).

Why The HEI Spark Tester?

If you have read any of my ignition system test tutorials, you'll notice that I'm always writing the article around the HEI spark tester. Why? Well for several reasons and they are:

1. 1

   The HEI spark tester is accurate and this will save you money by ensuring your diagnostic reaches the right conclusion and thus keeping you from replacing good parts.
   
   How? Well, no other spark tester stress tests the ignition coil or the spark plug wire (high tension wire) like the HEI spark tester. The stress test that the HEI spark tester puts the ignition coil under, produces a spark or a no-spark test result you can take to the bank.

2. 2

   The HEI spark tester does not cost an arm and a leg. It usually retails for around 10 to 14 US dollars (don't have an HEI spark tester? Need to buy one? You can buy it here: OTC 6589 Electronic Ignition Spark Tester).

3. 3

   You don't have to interpret the color of the spark on the HEI spark tester. On some spark testers, it's suggested that you have to interpret the color of the spark (which is total BS in the first place since the color of the spark has nothing to do with anything).
   
   If the HEI spark tester sparks, the spark is present and strong enough. If it doesn't spark, then you have a bonafide no-spark result you can trust.

4. 4

   In the long years I've spent working as a diagnostic automotive technician, I have used a lot of different tools to test for spark and from personal experience I know it works and I can therefore recommend it to you.