TEST 1: Making Sure The Ignition Module Is Getting Power
The very first thing that we're gonna' do, is to make sure that the black with yellow stripe (BLK/YEL) wire is providing battery power to the ignition control module.
We're gonna' perform this test on the wire from the engine wiring harness distributor connector (this is the one with female terminals).
As mentioned in the previous page, avoid inserting your multimeter test lead in the distributor connector. I recommend that you use a back probe or a wire piercing probe to check for these 12 Volts. You can see an example of a wire piercing probe here: Wire Piercing Probe.
The ignition system wiring diagram may come in handy and you can find it here: 1997-1998 2.0L Honda CR-V Ignition System Wiring Diagram.
Alright, let's get going:
- 1
Disconnect the distributor from its electrical connector and turn the key to its ON position.
- 2
Connect the black multimeter test lead to the BLK/YEL wire of the distributor's connector.
- 3
Connect the red multimeter test lead to the battery positive (+) terminal.
- 4
Your multimeter should read 10 to 12 Volts DC if the ignition control module is getting battery power.
Let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: The ignition control module is getting power. This is the correct and expected test result.
Now we need to see if the fuel injection computer is triggering the ignition control module. For this test, go to: TEST 2: Making Sure The Ignition Control Module Is Being Triggered.
CASE 2: The ignition control module IS NOT getting battery power. This tells you that the ignition control module is not working due to a lack of 12 Volts.
Your next step is to repair and restore power to the connector. Once the 12 Volts are restored, the ignition control module should function again and the engine should start.
TEST 2: Making Sure The Ignition Module Is Being Triggered
The fuel injection computer on your 1997-1998 2.0L Honda CR-V is the component that activates the ignition control module (ICM).
Now, to go into more details: The fuel injection computer only triggers the ignition control module after it has received the crankshaft position sensor signals from the distributor.
In this section, we're gonna' see if the computer is actually providing the ICM control signal using an LED light (a 12 Volt automotive test light will NOT work). You can see an example of this LED light here: The LED Light Test Tool and How To Make One.
The wire that we're going to test is the yellow with green (YEL/GRN) stripe wire of the engine wiring harness distributor connector.
NOTE: LED lights are polarity specific. In other words, take care to connect the black and red wires (of the LED light) to the indicated sources in the instruction below.
IMPORTANT: The distributor must remain connected to the engine wiring harness connector for this test to work.
OK, these are the test steps:
- 1
Connect the black wire of the LED to the YEL/GRN wire of the distributor connector using an appropriate tool.
Remember, the distributor must remain connected to the engine wiring harness distributor connector.. - 2
Connect the red LED light wire to the battery positive (+) terminal.
- 3
Have your helper crank the engine while you observe the LED light.
- 4
The LED light should flash ON and OFF as you crank the engine if the fuel injection computer is triggering the ICM.
Let's take a look at what your test results mean:
CASE 1: The LED light flashed ON and OFF as the engine was cranked. This is the correct and expected test result and tells you that the ignition control module is getting the ICM control signal.
This test result tells that the ignition control module is defective (and needs to be replaced) only if you have:
- Made sure the ignition coil is not sparking and not getting a control signal from the ignition control module.
- Made sure the ignition control module has power (TEST 1).
- Made sure the ignition control module is getting the triggering signal from the fuel injection computer (TEST 2).
CASE 2: The LED light DID NOT flash ON and OFF as the engine was cranked. This tells you that the fuel injection computer is not triggering the ICM. Without the ICM control signal, the ignition module will not activate the ignition coil.
This usually means that one of the 3 crankshaft position sensors, inside the distributor, is defective. Although it's beyond the scope of this tutorial to test the crankshaft position sensors, you have confirmed that the ignition control module is not defective (since it won't function without its triggering signal).
More 2.0L Honda CR-V Tutorials
You can find a complete list of tutorials here: Honda 2.0L Index Of Articles.
Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find there:
- How To Test The Ignition Coil (1997-1998 2.0L Honda CR-V).
- How To Test The TPS (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
- How To Test The MAP Sensor (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V).
- How To Test Engine Compression (1997-2001 2.0L Honda).
On YouTube, check out my following videos:
- How To Test The Ignition Coil (1999-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at YouTube).
- How To Test The Ignition Control Module (1999, 2000, 2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at YouTube).
- How To Test The Fuel Pump (1997-2001 2.0L Honda CR-V) (at: YouTube).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!