Using Starting Fluid
The starting fluid test is usually the first test I run when beginning an engine no-start diagnostic.
This test simply involves spraying starting fluid into the engine's throttle body and then starting the engine.
If a lack of fuel is causing the engine to not start, the starting fluid will cause the engine to start and run for a few seconds.
While this is not the most accurate way to diagnose an engine no-start problem caused by a bad fuel pump, it will definitely steer your troubleshooting efforts in the right direction.
IMPORTANT: The accuracy of the starting fluid test depends on all six spark plugs delivering spark to their cylinders. If you haven't checked the spark plug wires for spark (using a spark tester), do so before beginning the test. Otherwise, you may get a false positive result with this test.
- 1
Remove the intake air duct from the throttle body.
You don't have to completely remove it, since you'll have to reconnect it in one of the next steps. - 2
Open the throttle manually, and spray starting fluid down the bore.
When you have sprayed a good squirt of starting fluid, quickly reconnect the air duct to the throttle body (you don't have to tighten the hose clamp).
Reconnecting the intake air duct is a very important safety precaution in case you get a back-fire thru' the intake manifold. - 3
Crank the engine once the intake air duct is back on the throttle body.
- 4
You'll get one of two results:
1.) The engine will start momentarily and after a few seconds will die.
2.) The engine will only crank but not start at all.
OK, let's analyze your test result:
CASE 1: The engine started and ran for a few seconds. This result confirms that the engine no-start problem is caused by a lack of fuel.
Next, I suggest that you test the fuel pump fuel pressure with a tester. For this test go to: Using A Fuel Pump Pressure Tester To Test the Fuel Pump.
CASE 2: The engine DID NOT start, even briefly. This result generally tells you that a lack of fuel is NOT the reason the engine won't start.
Remember what I said about this test not being very accurate? Well, I suggest you do one more test and test the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester. For this test go to: Using A Fuel Pump Pressure Tester To Test the Fuel Pump.
More 3.0L Ford Ranger Tutorials
You can find a complete list of tutorials here:
Here's a sample of the tutorials you'll find there:
- How To Test The Engine Compression (1991-2008 3.0L Ford Ranger).
- How To Test The Blower Motor (1998-2000 3.0L Ford Ranger).
- How To Test The Fuel Pump (1991-1994 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger) .
- How To Test The MAF Sensor (1998-2001 3.0L V6 Ford Ranger).
If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!